By Aad van der Werf

Symington Family Estates have decided to launch 3 single property Vintage Ports from the 2004 vintage: Quinta do Vesúvio, Dow’s Senhora da Ribeira and Quinta de Roriz 2004.

What is a quinta?

There are contrary accounts of the origin of the word quinta, the most plausible being that it derives from early mediaeval times when land was held in tenure from the crown in return for a rent or tribute of one fifth (uma quinta parte) of its produce. Whatever its derivation, the least misleading translation of quinta is ‘farm’ or ‘estate’. Wine has been made in the Douro region at least since Roman times. In the early Middle Ages many vineyards were established under the aegis of monastic foundations, either for their own use or through leasing land to lay tenants.

Quintas such as the Quinta de Roriz were established on lands originally leased from monasteries. On the other hand, a few quintas were manorial, or held independently by an important family, as in the case of Vesúvio.

Into the nineteenth century

Until the end of the eighteenth century the demarcated port region did not extend eastwards of the Cachão de Valeira (near S. João da Pesqueira), for the very practical reason that here the Douro was blocked by a huge rock cataract which made shipping, the sole means of moving port to Vila Nova de Gaia , impossible. As a result of engineering works lasting twelve years this obstacle was removed in 1792 (although the Cachão did not become navigable until 1807), thereby making the Douro Superior fully viable for port production. This explains why few of the quintas east of Valeira pre-date the nineteenth century, unless they were grain farms which were later adapted for wine growing.
Throughout the nineteenth century single quinta wines were readily available in England: Boa Vista, Bom Retiro, Carvalhas, Noval, Roêda, Romaneira, Roncão, Roriz, Vargellas, Vesúvio, Zimbro and doubtless many, many others.

Vintage port and single quinta vintages

Shippers have for well over a century ‘declared’ certain years as vintages. This has happened because only in certain years does the wine of a single vintage reach the high quality which they believe is necessary to provide a wine which justifies (i.e. benefits from) being bottled at an early age and matured in bottle instead of in cask.
Although, as we have seen, it was quite common to ship single quinta ports in the nineteenth century, by the end of it this practice had all but died out, with the important and notable exceptions of Roriz and Noval.
The custom of shipping single quinta ports was revived, largely by British shippers, after 1950. Such single quinta ports are produced in exactly the same way as declared vintages, but they have been offered in years in which their shippers did not declare a vintage. In dealing with the market for single quinta ports it is convenient to distinguish between those offered by the shippers, and those offered by independent producers.

Vintage 2004

The months of October and November 2003 were considerably wet and followed by dry, warm weather for the remainder of the winter months. April was also warm and encouraged rapid vine growth, although in May some rather more unsettled weather delayed flowering and fruit set. Although June and July were very hot, heavy rains in the second week of August came as a welcome surprise and lowered temperatures. This was followed by more uncharacteristic cool and cloudy weather at the end of the month, which continued into the first two weeks of September. These conditions delayed ripening and it was not until September 15th when good weather returned and it remained unusually hot, that Baumés soared upwards.

Quinta do Vesúvio

‘Epic’ and ‘colossal’ were amongst the hyperboles used for the Quinta do Vesúvio by writers in the nineteenth century, for whom Vesúvio was the ultimate quinta. Some approached it almost with awe: ‘Imagine, if you can, a vineyard containing within its walls seven hills and thirty valleys!’ For Vila Maior it was a folie de grandeur: ‘The first impression received on viewing this extensive property… is well nigh of wonder,’ he said, ‘(but) this quinta was laid out in a princely style, without judgment or calculation, more to satisfy the caprices of wealth than to procure a fitting return of the capital invested.’
By the beginning of the nineteenth century the quinta, which until then had grown corn crops, belonged to the Conde de Lapa, and in 1823 he leased it in perpetuity to António Bernardo Ferreira, the uncle and father-in-law of Dona Antónia Ferreira. In the following twelve years António Bernardo set about creating this legendary quinta, constructing terraces and roads, building – and, of course, planting, planting, planting. In 1835, just as the house was completed, he died, and Vesúvio was inherited by his son (of the same name) who had been married to Dona Antónia for just three months. After her husband’s death she increased its size still further.
The quinta remained in the hands of the family (latterly with eighteen owners), and the wine was sold to Ferreira, until 1989, when the property was purchased by the Symingtons. Clearly this is a turning point in its history, for the Symingtons are probably, of all shippers, best in a position to tame the beast. More excitingly, the quinta is not tied to any single company owned by the Symingtons, who run and market the quinta independently, along the lines of a Bordeaux château.

Tasting Note

The wine has an opaque, inky purple colour. The excellent ripeness of the grapes and relatively high Baumés allowed for longer fermentations, producing wines of exceptional concentration, depth of colour and tannic structure. The 2004 has a fragrant nose of violets and layers of rich blackberry fruit on the palate, making it irresistible for broaching young, although the wine will age for decades (Oporto, April 2006).

Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira

The Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira sits facing the Quinta do Vesúvio across the Douro. Deriving its name from the little chapel between the quinta house and the river, this was the second quinta to be acquired by George Warre (in 1889). Although Zimbro was originally the centre of Silva & Cosens’s Douro operations it was soon supplanted by Senhora da Ribeira as a family retreat – it had a better situation (no railway behind the house) and magnificent shooting – just as, later on, it was itself overtaken by Bomfim.
Senhora da Ribeira was, and is, rather modest both in size and character. Paul Symington:
’ It was incredibly remote in those days and the family would arrive on the Vesúvio side (by train or car) and then cross by boat to Senhora da Ribeira. My great uncles, John and Ron, were particularly fond of this Quinta and used it for shooting parties.’
Senhora da Ribeira is an important part of Dow’s vintage and other premium blends.

Tasting Note

Beautifully floral with hints of violets, eucalyptus and mint as well as lifted blackcurrant fruit. On the palate, super-concentrated layers of brambly fruit, showing also appealing nuances of mocha and chocolate, all held together by fine spicy tannins. Typical Dow peppery overtones and the classic drier edge. Great structure and power carry through into the long, full finish (Oporto, April 2006).

Quinta de Roriz

The Quinta de Roriz is deservedly famous. Not only has its wine enjoyed renown since the eighteenth century, when it was amongst the first ever to be exported as a single quinta, but Roriz possesses perhaps the most picturesque quinta buildings of any in the region. By the time of the Pombaline demarcations, Roriz was a flourishing quinta.
The port shipping firm of C N Kopke & Ca, Lda, goes back to 1638 when Cristiano Kopke, the son of the Consul of the Hanseatic towns in Lisbon, settled in Oporto and became a merchant dealing, amongst other things, in wine. When Nicolau took over Roriz, therefore, his firm had been established for more than a century, but the quinta remained the property of the family. The Kopkes had an astonishing propensity for marrying within the family, and when the quinta passed from Nicolau to his son, Cristiano, he was already married to his niece, Leonor Caroline van Zeller, whose father, Henrique Pedro van Zeller, was of Dutch descent.
The quinta was inherited by Leonor’s grandson, Cristiano van Zeller. His grandson, Dr Pedro van Zeller, had two sons, Pedro and João. Today Roriz is owned and managed by João van Zeller, the sixth generation of Van Zellers to own the Quinta, in association with the Symington family. João van Zeller is related to the Symingtons as the latter have a Van Zeller ancestor.

Tasting Note

Deep impenetrable colour with a dark violet rim. Beautifully lifted aroma of ripe cherries, along with attractive floral scents suggesting rockrose. In the mouth, huge vibrant and fresh red berry fruits (raspberries and redcurrants) with underlying ripe tannins and hints of minerals and spice. Accomplished, concentrated lingering finish (Oporto, April 2006).

Three distinct personalities

My tasting notes in The Hague, August 2006 confirm those of April 2006 in Oporto. I condensed them to a description of the style of each wine, within the overall confines of a vintage 2004 port.

Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira: serious and structured
Quinta do Vesúvio: charming and concentrated
Quinta de Roriz: fresh and fruity

Part of the explanation in style lies in a difference in wine making: Senhora da Ribeira has been fortified at 7º Baumé, Vesúvio and Roriz both at 8º Baumé.

The table gives other explanatory factors for differences in acidity and sweetness. Going from Senhora da Ribeira to Vesúvio one crosses the river Douro from North to South bank. Going from Vesúvio to Roriz one moves into the direction of the Atlantic, from Douro Superior to Cima Corgo.

Each of these quinta vintage ports has its own distinct personality which can be enjoyed right now, or develop further inside the bottle.

Aad van der Werf

From: Port Wine Quintas of the Douro, Alex Liddell
Company and Personal Information